This Week In Food: Dungeness Season Approaches

The quiet anticipation of a San Francisco autumn is often punctuated by the scent of woodsmoke and the promise of fresh Dungeness crab. This week, that promise is complicated by a stark reminder of the lengths some will go to circumvent the rules, as eleven individuals were cited for illegal crab fishing in San Mateo County. Yet, amidst this news, San Francisco’s vibrant culinary scene continues to evolve, with new restaurants opening, beloved institutions preparing for renewal, and familiar flavors poised to expand their reach.

New Arrivals and Renovations

The arrival of T&T Supermarket at City Center marks a significant addition to the city’s Asian grocery landscape. Occupying the long-vacant former Best Buy space, next to the Geary Boulevard Target, this Canadian chain, akin to H Mart, brings a welcome array of offerings, including the popular “Papa Chicken” fried chicken, extensive bakery items, house-brand dumplings and buns, and a comprehensive fish counter. This represents an investment in our diverse communities and provides familiar comforts for many residents. Simultaneously, Cotogna, a cherished fixture in the North Beach neighborhood, is preparing for a months-long renovation beginning January 15th. The expansion will accommodate approximately 100 seats in the restaurant’s parklet, requiring a significant overhaul of the kitchen and prep space. This renovation, mirroring a similar project undertaken by its sister restaurant Quince years prior, underscores the enduring appeal and ongoing evolution of San Francisco’s dining scene. SF Standard - Cotogna Renovation reports that the closure will last about three months, and the pizza oven will also be replaced.

Adding to the city’s evolving cocktail culture, Yabani, a new bar blending Japanese and Arabian flavors, opened its doors on November 6th in the former Nihon Whiskey Lounge space on Folsom Street. Initially operating on Friday and Saturday evenings, the bar is the brainchild of owner Khaled Dajani, who also owns Bar 821 on Divisadero. The concept emphasizes Japanese-style highballs, offering customizable spirit and flavor profiles, and reflects a thoughtful transition from the previous establishment. Eater - New San Francisco Restaurants details that beverage director Mohammed Zagha collaborated with Dajani on the concept.

Expanding Asian Cuisine

Further enriching the city’s culinary tapestry, Neul, a Korean brunch spot, is slated to open in mid-December at the Pistachio Kitchen space in Lower Pacific Heights. This new venture promises a “modern neighborhood kitchen” with a fresh take on brunch, coffee, and everyday dining, drawing inspiration from Korean roots. While Pistachio Kitchen has not yet closed, the arrival of Neul signals a continued interest in diverse and innovative food experiences within our neighborhoods. SF Business Times - Korean Brunch Spot Coming to Lower Pac Heights reports on this exciting addition.

Pizza Popups and Expansion

For pizza aficionados, the news of Anthony Mangieri, the renowned pizzaiolo behind Una Pizza Napoletana, returning to San Francisco for two pop-up events is cause for celebration. On November 16th, Mangieri will collaborate with A16, an event that reportedly sold out instantly. A subsequent appearance at Linea in the Mission on November 17th promises further opportunities to experience his acclaimed pies. This demonstrates the enduring appeal of authentic Italian cuisine and the eagerness of San Franciscans to support culinary artistry. SFGate - Una Pizza Napoletana Pop-Up details the events.

Illegal Crab Fishing and Delayed Season

The recent incident involving eleven individuals cited for illegal Dungeness crab fishing in San Mateo County serves as a sobering reminder of the importance of respecting regulations and protecting our natural resources. These individuals were caught waded into the water after dark with buckets, violating rules regarding both the timing and size of crabs harvested. Recreational Dungeness crab season is set to open on Saturday, while the commercial season has been delayed due to concerns regarding migrating whales. This delay impacts both local fishermen and the restaurants that rely on this seasonal delicacy, highlighting the delicate balance between economic activity and environmental stewardship. KRON4 - Illegal Crab Fishing provides a full report on the incident.

Original Joe's Expansion

The prospect of Original Joe’s expanding its presence in the Bay Area brings a familiar comfort to many. While a lease has not yet been finalized, the restaurant chain is reportedly eyeing the former Left Bank Brasserie space in Menlo Park. The mayor of Menlo Park apparently made a slightly premature announcement, but as San Francisco Chronicle - Original Joe's Menlo Park reports, this expansion represents an opportunity to introduce the beloved Italian-American institution to a new community and underscores the enduring appeal of classic dining experiences.

CoCo Ichibanya Comes to Cupertino

The arrival of CoCo Ichibanya, Japan’s largest curry chain, in Cupertino marks another step in the diversification of our city’s culinary landscape. Set to open in mid-December at 19900 Vallco Parkway, the 50-seat restaurant follows others in Southern California and Texas. San Francisco Chronicle - CoCo Ichibanya Cupertino reports that the chain has more than 1,000 locations in Japan and offers Japanese chicken cutlet curry with customizable toppings, as well as dumplings, spicy teriyaki fried chicken, and curry udon bowls.

Katherine’s Take

The confluence of these events – the arrival of new grocery stores, the renovation of established restaurants, and the ongoing quest for authentic culinary experiences – speaks to a deep-seated desire within our community for connection and belonging. A thriving food scene isn't just about delicious meals; it's about shared experiences, cultural exchange, and the strengthening of neighborhood bonds. The illegal crab fishing incident is a regrettable reminder that even amidst this vibrancy, respect for the law and for our natural resources remains paramount. It underscores the importance of fostering a sense of shared responsibility and commitment to preserving the qualities that make San Francisco so unique. As families navigate these evolving times, it’s crucial to emphasize the value of tradition, hard work, and respect for the rules that govern our community. The delayed Dungeness season, while disappointing, offers an opportunity for reflection on the interconnectedness of our economy and the environment.

What's Next

With the official start of Dungeness crab season just days away, residents can anticipate fresh, local seafood on menus throughout the city. The opening of T&T Supermarket and Neul promises new culinary adventures for those seeking diverse flavors. Cotogna’s renovation will undoubtedly bring renewed energy and enhanced dining experiences when it reopens in the spring. And as Original Joe’s explores its expansion into Menlo Park, the prospect of bringing a beloved San Francisco institution to the Peninsula offers a taste of home for many. The city’s culinary landscape continues to evolve, offering something for everyone and reinforcing San Francisco’s position as a global culinary destination. It remains to be seen how the ongoing challenges related to whale migration will affect the commercial crab season, but for now, the promise of fresh Dungeness crab hangs in the air, a symbol of San Francisco’s enduring spirit and connection to the sea.